Ever since our hike a few weeks ago up to the Temple of the Moon, a group of us had been discussing hiking up to see the sunrise one morning. We were all in town this weekend, and as it was the first day of autumn (here) we decided it was a good morning to go. Seven of us woke up at 4:30, and took a cab across town at 5, then hiked for 25 minutes to ruins above the Temple of the Moon and watched the sun come up. As we were sitting there a group of about 10 Peruvians of all different ages came up and joined us. With them was a shaman, and they were there to celebrate the solstice and give their offerings to the earth, and they invited us to join them in their ceremony.
They poured rose oil on our hands, and gave us coco leaves to chew on, and three to hold in our hands. The shaman then called out to the spirits of mountains and welcomed their energy to us as we blew on the leaves and prayed. As the sun rose we all stood and meditated as they prayed in Spanish and translated into English for us, explaining how at the solstice the energies of the cosmos and the earth align, and plants, animals and human beings are the bridge to this energy, and we welcomed it in. At the end of the ceremony they blew smoke from a fire they had burned on us, and after one last prayer of thanks, we chewed the leaves we were holding.
I completely can't do the ceremony justice with my words, but it was amazing to recognize and pray to the earth and ask to receive it's energy. It was about giving thanks to the sun (or, whoever you believe you should be giving thanks to) for our blessings and for each day that we are given, and it was wonderful to just take a step aside and really be appreciative of all of the things that I have been blessed with.
What would have been a beautiful sunrise turned into so much more, due to coincidence? or instinct? to go on the solstice. The woman that helped lead the ceremony and one of the guys there offered to take us all on a hike along the Inca Trail next weekend to a waterfall and show us some more Incan ruins along the way, so more to look forward to next weekend!
Phew, sorry, pretty heavy for a blog, I know. But I'm just aware of how incredibly lucky and blessed I am, not only to have the opportunity to be here and have these experiences, but also for all of the wonderful people I get to be with when I return home (including the soon to be new members of the family!). So yes, love to you all!
-me
Sunday, March 21, 2010
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Lake Titicaca
Greetings once again from Cusco!
Just got sent home from construction due to the rain so figured I´d update you all on the goings on here....
Just returned from a weekend away at Lake Titicaca, it was pretty incredible. Ten of the volunteers from my house all took the trip together, so there was a great crew of people. We took an overnight bus ride from Cusco to the city of Puno, arriving at 5:30 am, where we had 2 hours in a hotel to sleep, shower and eat breakfast. Turns out I´m a champion sleeper and slept through the entire bus ride, I was pretty proud of myself and more rested than I expected. From Puno we took a boat to the floating islands, a community called Uros consisting of like 70 families that created their own islands out of reeds. It was really interesting, they gave us a demonstration of how they constructed the islands using clumps of reed root as a base, and layers of dried reeds on top. They staked their islands into the bottom of the lake (about 16 meters deep), and from there they built their houses on top. I guess historically the inhabitants moved out there in order to hunt birds and fish more easily. Unfortunately the animal life has been depleted too much for them to depend on that, and the community currently lives on the lake so they don´t have to pay taxes to the government. Interesting approach...I wonder if Thoreau would have had more luck if he actually lived in Walden Pond? But now they obviously depend on tourism to survive, so it´s pretty exploited, but supposedly on some of the islands life continues as it did before. Either way, it was really interesting, and I got to eat a piece of reed which was cool.
That afternoon we headed to the island of Amantani, where we had lunch with our host families, including little 4 year old Roy, who gave us a quick Spanish lesson by pointing at pictures in his notebook, saying the word and then giggling intensely. Such a cute kid!! Three of the volunteers and I had a little room at their house, and they cooked us quinoa soup and a plate of potatoes with fried squeaky cheese (if you´ve had it before you´d know why we call it that, it is really a squeaky texture). We then played a game of soccer, locals versus gringos, and despite the altitude of over 3800 meters we actually held our own pretty well. I was a little disappointed as they made us play girls versus girls, so there were 6 female college grads from the states/Spain versus 6 locals, primarily girls wearing full traditional garb, including sandals, brightly colored skirts and head scarves...didn´t feel that evenly matched. But it was fun either way, I scored 2 goals which made me happy :) Following the game we hiked for an hour up to the Pachatata temple at 4200 meters - the hike was really tiring but it was rewarding with panoramic views of the Lake Titicaca at sunset, including the snow capped mountains of Bolivia across the lake. After the hike we had dinner (again of quinoa soup, followed by white rice and fried potatoes in egg). As soon as dinner was over our host mother threw us into traditional clothing (I´ll post pictures soon, but I don´t think I could quite pass as Peruvian...) and hustled us off to a party, where we learned traditional dance and drank Cusquena, the local beer. We were all pretty exhausted from the day so my friends and I didn´t dance long, but wandered off to look at the stars, so incredible with barely any light pollution!
I was fighting a cold all weekend which was a bit of a pain, but it was really only a problem at the night and in the morning (randomly woke up the following morning with one eye crusted shut? That was pleasant, especially with no running water to rinse it out. All weekend. Huzzah for baby wipes!) But was actually okay the following morning, from Amantani we took the boat to another island Taquile, where we hiked for 45 minutes up to a beautiful restaurant, where we got a brief history lesson and were then served (you guessed it!) quinoa soup, and omelette or trout with rice. Once again, quite delicious. From there we just took the boat back to Puno (I managed to punch through the mirror in the bathroom on the boat, don´t ask. Hand was okay but super embarassing and had to pay $10 to replace, oops!). Back in Puno we had 5 hours to waste, and managed to do so at the absolute worst restaurant in the world, Eccos. They didn´t have half the food or drink items offered on the menu, and pizza consisted of essentially a matza cracker with a ketchup type sauce and cheese, and quacamole was the portion of a shot with 5 chips served with it. Awful yet hilarious experience. Managed to sleep through the bus ride home, which was fortunate as I heard it was pretty much death defying, with the bus at various points going up on one axle as we rounded mountain bends. We managed to make it home an hour faster than the way there, kind of concenrning but everyone survived (Did I mention that when you get on the bus they take a quick picture of each passenger? I believe which is then used to identify bodies if the bus does happen to plummet off the cliff? Yep, scary).
Things in Cusco still continue to be great, I´m just doing construction this week and am really looking forward to my afternoons being free. Construction is just plastering the outside of an abode brick building, it´s pretty fun actually and much easier than when we did the attic dad, there´s no floor yet so we can be as messy or awful as we want and it´s not a problem!
Anywho, love you all lots, feel free to respond with the goings on at home!
-tNaZ
Just got sent home from construction due to the rain so figured I´d update you all on the goings on here....
Just returned from a weekend away at Lake Titicaca, it was pretty incredible. Ten of the volunteers from my house all took the trip together, so there was a great crew of people. We took an overnight bus ride from Cusco to the city of Puno, arriving at 5:30 am, where we had 2 hours in a hotel to sleep, shower and eat breakfast. Turns out I´m a champion sleeper and slept through the entire bus ride, I was pretty proud of myself and more rested than I expected. From Puno we took a boat to the floating islands, a community called Uros consisting of like 70 families that created their own islands out of reeds. It was really interesting, they gave us a demonstration of how they constructed the islands using clumps of reed root as a base, and layers of dried reeds on top. They staked their islands into the bottom of the lake (about 16 meters deep), and from there they built their houses on top. I guess historically the inhabitants moved out there in order to hunt birds and fish more easily. Unfortunately the animal life has been depleted too much for them to depend on that, and the community currently lives on the lake so they don´t have to pay taxes to the government. Interesting approach...I wonder if Thoreau would have had more luck if he actually lived in Walden Pond? But now they obviously depend on tourism to survive, so it´s pretty exploited, but supposedly on some of the islands life continues as it did before. Either way, it was really interesting, and I got to eat a piece of reed which was cool.
That afternoon we headed to the island of Amantani, where we had lunch with our host families, including little 4 year old Roy, who gave us a quick Spanish lesson by pointing at pictures in his notebook, saying the word and then giggling intensely. Such a cute kid!! Three of the volunteers and I had a little room at their house, and they cooked us quinoa soup and a plate of potatoes with fried squeaky cheese (if you´ve had it before you´d know why we call it that, it is really a squeaky texture). We then played a game of soccer, locals versus gringos, and despite the altitude of over 3800 meters we actually held our own pretty well. I was a little disappointed as they made us play girls versus girls, so there were 6 female college grads from the states/Spain versus 6 locals, primarily girls wearing full traditional garb, including sandals, brightly colored skirts and head scarves...didn´t feel that evenly matched. But it was fun either way, I scored 2 goals which made me happy :) Following the game we hiked for an hour up to the Pachatata temple at 4200 meters - the hike was really tiring but it was rewarding with panoramic views of the Lake Titicaca at sunset, including the snow capped mountains of Bolivia across the lake. After the hike we had dinner (again of quinoa soup, followed by white rice and fried potatoes in egg). As soon as dinner was over our host mother threw us into traditional clothing (I´ll post pictures soon, but I don´t think I could quite pass as Peruvian...) and hustled us off to a party, where we learned traditional dance and drank Cusquena, the local beer. We were all pretty exhausted from the day so my friends and I didn´t dance long, but wandered off to look at the stars, so incredible with barely any light pollution!
I was fighting a cold all weekend which was a bit of a pain, but it was really only a problem at the night and in the morning (randomly woke up the following morning with one eye crusted shut? That was pleasant, especially with no running water to rinse it out. All weekend. Huzzah for baby wipes!) But was actually okay the following morning, from Amantani we took the boat to another island Taquile, where we hiked for 45 minutes up to a beautiful restaurant, where we got a brief history lesson and were then served (you guessed it!) quinoa soup, and omelette or trout with rice. Once again, quite delicious. From there we just took the boat back to Puno (I managed to punch through the mirror in the bathroom on the boat, don´t ask. Hand was okay but super embarassing and had to pay $10 to replace, oops!). Back in Puno we had 5 hours to waste, and managed to do so at the absolute worst restaurant in the world, Eccos. They didn´t have half the food or drink items offered on the menu, and pizza consisted of essentially a matza cracker with a ketchup type sauce and cheese, and quacamole was the portion of a shot with 5 chips served with it. Awful yet hilarious experience. Managed to sleep through the bus ride home, which was fortunate as I heard it was pretty much death defying, with the bus at various points going up on one axle as we rounded mountain bends. We managed to make it home an hour faster than the way there, kind of concenrning but everyone survived (Did I mention that when you get on the bus they take a quick picture of each passenger? I believe which is then used to identify bodies if the bus does happen to plummet off the cliff? Yep, scary).
Things in Cusco still continue to be great, I´m just doing construction this week and am really looking forward to my afternoons being free. Construction is just plastering the outside of an abode brick building, it´s pretty fun actually and much easier than when we did the attic dad, there´s no floor yet so we can be as messy or awful as we want and it´s not a problem!
Anywho, love you all lots, feel free to respond with the goings on at home!
-tNaZ
Friday, March 5, 2010
Week 2
Hola!
Yep, as I said I'm horrible about being consistent with this sorry!
Last Thursday was my best day here by far. Two of the other volunteers and I went on a hike up past the White Christ, and came across a German couple that told us about a trail to the Temple of the Moon. We kept wandering along, and eventually just came across these old ruins nestled into rock faces. It was amazing - the previous views I had seen were of the city, but we were on the other face of the mountains, looking across rolling green stretches of Andes scattered with ruins, with very few people around. There is so much Incan history in Cusco that a group of sacrificial temples just beyond the outskirts of the city are not even a tourist attraction, which allows for a really peaceful visit. We got a tour from the local who explained some of the history, then hiked further and meditated for awhile in the sun on top of a mountain.
On the way down I stopped by my friend's hostal in San Blas and got my hair wrapped by an artist in the street, got to practice my Spanish with him for over an hour which was great. And then that evening the majority of the volunteers went out for a night of Karoake (sp?), which was quite interesting in itself - I even sang a song or two (Talking Heads and Garth Brooks(?!) With other people of course). I should probably be embarassed, but it was a lot of fun.
On the weekend I was a tourist, going on the Cusco City Tour and the Tour of Sacred Valley. The first tour I could have done without, as I discovered after that the majority of the sites were of Incan ruins I would have preferred to have hiked to, which would have been much more gratifying that have been shuttled around in a bus. Sacred Valley was beautiful - we saw a demonstration of how they clean, spin, dye using natural elements, and then weave the wool from the llamas to make their wares, which was really interesting. We went to 2 major sites of ruins, and stopped a delicious buffet restaurant on the way home (I ate Alpaca :/ I feel like a bad person but it was actually really delicious). It was a good day, but due to the flooding and a washed out bridge we didn't get to one of the other major sites which was disappointing. One thing I've learned though - if there's an earthquake I'm running directly to the nearest Incan structure - despite pillaging of the stones by the conquistadors, they have withstood the test of time and are incredible and sturdy. Not that I have an escape route or anything...
Besides that things have been relatively "routine", I've continued to have Spanish classes in the morning and to work at the same home in the afternoons. Next week I'm going to start doing the Construction project in the mornings though, and possibly continue at the home (the girls will start school, and I think that with my level of Spanish I may be able to help them with there homework, at least that way I'll feel like I'm actually contributing!) A few people from our volunteer house left and a lot more came in, so we are full capacity with 19 (16 of which are female). It seems like a good group, and it's nice knowing that none of them have done the excursions yet, so it will be easier to plan small trips (hopefully next weekend to Lake Titicaca!).
Some more good and bad:
Bad: Did I mention toilet paper can't go in the toilets? And on that note, I finally got sick (as expected), but it really wasn't that bad. My stomach hurt for two days, but I took medication I brought with me from the travel clinic and it cleared up. I didn't even have to miss any classes or volunteering.
The sun has been relatively scarce, but it's ok because it's incredibly strong - if I'm out in it for more than 10 minutes without sunblock I'm guaranteed to burn. Which has happened to my scalp numerous times, which is pretty hideous when it peels :( Next item I purchase is going to be a hat or bandana, I'm an idiot for not bringing any.
Two of my roommates are doing the medical volunteering - they were both scribes in a hospital at home prior to coming here, which essentially just entails following around an ER doctor and taking notes for him. Here, however, one has been doing transvaginal ultrasounds and the other taking out stiches. And did I mention that neither of them really speak Spanish? They've been learning those skills primarily through hand gestures and broken Spanglish. That coupled with their reports of the sanitation only reinforces my goal to stay out of the hospital here!
Good: I still have pretty much loved every single meal I've had here, including the ceviche they served for lunch. I've still pretty much only eaten at the house (except this weekend on the Sacred Valley tour - which just happened to be right before I got sick...I'm going to guess that that wasn't a coincidence), and they serve all sorts of different typical Peruvian dishes, they haven't made the same meal twice. Did I mention I love food?
Just in general I'm really happy I'm here. I love and miss everyone at home a lot, but I'm so grateful for this experience and the opportunity to be doing this. Still so excited for all of the other things I'm going to do, I'll keep you posted(eventually)!
Yep, as I said I'm horrible about being consistent with this sorry!
Last Thursday was my best day here by far. Two of the other volunteers and I went on a hike up past the White Christ, and came across a German couple that told us about a trail to the Temple of the Moon. We kept wandering along, and eventually just came across these old ruins nestled into rock faces. It was amazing - the previous views I had seen were of the city, but we were on the other face of the mountains, looking across rolling green stretches of Andes scattered with ruins, with very few people around. There is so much Incan history in Cusco that a group of sacrificial temples just beyond the outskirts of the city are not even a tourist attraction, which allows for a really peaceful visit. We got a tour from the local who explained some of the history, then hiked further and meditated for awhile in the sun on top of a mountain.
On the way down I stopped by my friend's hostal in San Blas and got my hair wrapped by an artist in the street, got to practice my Spanish with him for over an hour which was great. And then that evening the majority of the volunteers went out for a night of Karoake (sp?), which was quite interesting in itself - I even sang a song or two (Talking Heads and Garth Brooks(?!) With other people of course). I should probably be embarassed, but it was a lot of fun.
On the weekend I was a tourist, going on the Cusco City Tour and the Tour of Sacred Valley. The first tour I could have done without, as I discovered after that the majority of the sites were of Incan ruins I would have preferred to have hiked to, which would have been much more gratifying that have been shuttled around in a bus. Sacred Valley was beautiful - we saw a demonstration of how they clean, spin, dye using natural elements, and then weave the wool from the llamas to make their wares, which was really interesting. We went to 2 major sites of ruins, and stopped a delicious buffet restaurant on the way home (I ate Alpaca :/ I feel like a bad person but it was actually really delicious). It was a good day, but due to the flooding and a washed out bridge we didn't get to one of the other major sites which was disappointing. One thing I've learned though - if there's an earthquake I'm running directly to the nearest Incan structure - despite pillaging of the stones by the conquistadors, they have withstood the test of time and are incredible and sturdy. Not that I have an escape route or anything...
Besides that things have been relatively "routine", I've continued to have Spanish classes in the morning and to work at the same home in the afternoons. Next week I'm going to start doing the Construction project in the mornings though, and possibly continue at the home (the girls will start school, and I think that with my level of Spanish I may be able to help them with there homework, at least that way I'll feel like I'm actually contributing!) A few people from our volunteer house left and a lot more came in, so we are full capacity with 19 (16 of which are female). It seems like a good group, and it's nice knowing that none of them have done the excursions yet, so it will be easier to plan small trips (hopefully next weekend to Lake Titicaca!).
Some more good and bad:
Bad: Did I mention toilet paper can't go in the toilets? And on that note, I finally got sick (as expected), but it really wasn't that bad. My stomach hurt for two days, but I took medication I brought with me from the travel clinic and it cleared up. I didn't even have to miss any classes or volunteering.
The sun has been relatively scarce, but it's ok because it's incredibly strong - if I'm out in it for more than 10 minutes without sunblock I'm guaranteed to burn. Which has happened to my scalp numerous times, which is pretty hideous when it peels :( Next item I purchase is going to be a hat or bandana, I'm an idiot for not bringing any.
Two of my roommates are doing the medical volunteering - they were both scribes in a hospital at home prior to coming here, which essentially just entails following around an ER doctor and taking notes for him. Here, however, one has been doing transvaginal ultrasounds and the other taking out stiches. And did I mention that neither of them really speak Spanish? They've been learning those skills primarily through hand gestures and broken Spanglish. That coupled with their reports of the sanitation only reinforces my goal to stay out of the hospital here!
Good: I still have pretty much loved every single meal I've had here, including the ceviche they served for lunch. I've still pretty much only eaten at the house (except this weekend on the Sacred Valley tour - which just happened to be right before I got sick...I'm going to guess that that wasn't a coincidence), and they serve all sorts of different typical Peruvian dishes, they haven't made the same meal twice. Did I mention I love food?
Just in general I'm really happy I'm here. I love and miss everyone at home a lot, but I'm so grateful for this experience and the opportunity to be doing this. Still so excited for all of the other things I'm going to do, I'll keep you posted(eventually)!
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